Anyone who frequents nail salons is probably familiar with gel, powder, and acrylic—but what are polygel nails? Polygel is a new hybrid formula getting buzz in nail salons for being less bulky than acrylic and less damaging than gel, yet just as long-lasting as both. Wondering how to apply polygel nails or how to remove polygel nails that you already have? We tapped some of the top nail artists for all the insight on polygel nails, from application to removal.
- Syreeta Aaron is a brand educator at LECHAT Nails.
- Michelle Saunders is a nail technician and founder of Saunders & James Nail Care.
What Are Polygel Nails?
“Polygel is considered to be a hybrid formula that combines the durability of acrylic and the elasticity type application of a builder gel,” says Syreeta Aaron, a LECHAT Nails brand educator. The formula comes out in a tube that looks like toothpaste, which is then applied directly onto the nail, molded to the length and shape you desire, and cured under a gel lamp.
According to experts, Gelish PolyGel is approximately 23 percent lighter than acrylics and 16 percent lighter than traditional hard gels, but it's just as strong. While every salon and artist will have different pricing, a standard full set of polygel nails will cost anywhere from $50 to $60, but Aaron notes that the price can increase based on nail shape and length.
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How to Apply Polygel Nails
There are two methods that Aaron says are typically used to apply polygel nails. There isn’t one that’s better than the other—it’s just a personal preference for the nail technician.
One method involves squeezing the gel into a full tip that’s flexible, spreading the product thinly into the tip, pressing on the natural nail, and curing it under a gel lamp. The other method involves applying the product onto the nail and brushing the gel down to the preferred shape and length on top of a form.
Michelle Saunders, nail technician and founder of Saunders & James Nail Care, adds that unlike acrylics, polygel is best applied with a medium-sized sculpting brush and needs to be cured in the gel lamp.
How to Remove Polygel Nails
The steps to remove polygel nails are similar to gel nails. As with any nail removal, soaking off is always the best course of action as opposed to pulling or tearing off the application, which can peel off layers of the nail plate.
“To remove the polygel, you will need to first remove the shiny coat/top coat. Once that layer has been broken, you can then soak in acetone and continue to file until the application is completely gone,” says Aaron.
Additionally, Aaron mentions that soaking in soap and oil mixed with warm water has been shown to remove poly gel. “This only works if the set that you have on is very old and has plenty of lifting to it,” Aaron notes. “This allows the oil to penetrate between the nail plate and the application, causing the application to pop off easily.”
Pros of Polygel Nails
Although we can’t say if polygel is “better” than acrylic or gel nails, they are all very different. Otherwise, acrylic, gel, and polygel are typically the same—they can all last up to three weeks and be refilled or redone when necessary. Can't make up your mind? Here are some pros of polygel nails to consider.
Fewer Chemicals
One benefit of polygel is that it’s not harmful to inhale unlike acrylics. “Polygel can be considered safer for the technician and for the client because neither is inhaling chemicals such as monomer that traditionally occurs with acrylics,” says Aaron.
Little Damage to Natural Nails
Likewise, polygel nails—when applied and removed correctly—are generally considered less damaging to natural nails than acrylics. They don't require as much filing down, and the polygel is a lighter material than acrylics or hard gels, so it puts less pressure and stress on the natural nails.
Creativity with Shaping
Another pro is that you can shape and maneuver the nail shape for a longer period of time. “ Since polygel only hardens after you place it underneath the gel lamp, it allows you to manipulate the nail for as long as you like, versus acrylic which dries and hardens soon after applying,” says Aaron.
Cons of Polygel Nails
There are some drawbacks to consider when thinking about a polygel nail manicure. Other options may be more suitable if you want a low-cost, low-maintenance option.
Hefty Price
One downside is that polygel nails do tend to be more expensive than acrylic and gel nails, and because they require maintenance, the cost can add up over time.
Exposure to UV or LED Light
Polygel nails cure under UV or LED light, which can be potentially harmful with prolonged exposure. Some research suggests that exposure to this light, even during a manicure, has been linked to aging skin and skin cancer.
Upkeep
Polygel nails will grow out in a few weeks, which means that you'll have to keep getting them filled in to keep up with them. It's also helpful to have a professional remove them if you want to do away with them altogether. This can be inconvenient, especially if you don't have access to the same salon, such as if you're traveling or on vacation when you get your nails done.
Frequently Asked Questions
Should you do poly nails at home?
While you technically can apply polygel nails at home, it’s not recommended by our nail artists. “Most professional nail products can be purchased online to try doing polygel at home, but I always recommend seeing a professional for application and removal to avoid damage.” says Aaron. “A nail technician trained in polygel will help prevent unwanted damage to the nail bed that may result from a lack of proper instruction or guidance.” If you decide to apply polygel nails at home, Aaron recommends doing thorough research and looking at reviews and tutorials of the brand you’re choosing to make sure it’s the right fit for you.
Do polygel nails need UV light?
Polygel nails need UV or LED light to cure and harden. The light helps the polygel set quickly, which makes the nails durable and gives them a smooth finish. Without a UV or LED light, the polygel won't fully cure.
Do polygel nails break easily?
Generally, polygel nails don't break very easily. Unlike acrylic nails, which can easily chip and crack,polygel nails are flexible. This means that they're not quite as brittle as acrylic nails, but they're still durable and long-lasting.
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